Rolex Submariner “Red Sub” – 1680

Introductory Summary

The Rolex Submariner reference 1680, commonly known as the “Red Sub,” is a stainless steel dive watch produced from 1967 until 1979 and holds a landmark position in Submariner history as the first model to feature a date complication. Its distinctive red “Submariner” dial text on early examples has made it one of the most collectible vintage Rolex sports watches, although not all 1680's have this red text, others may have normal white text instead.

Core Specifications

  • Brand: Rolex
  • Collection: Submariner
  • Reference: 1680
  • Nickname: Red Sub
  • Production Start: 1967
  • Production End: 1979
  • Status: Discontinued
  • Case Size: 40mm
  • Case Material: Stainless Steel
  • Bezel: Black Aluminium, Bidirectional
  • Dial: Black
  • Crystal: Acrylic
  • Bracelet/Strap: Oyster Bracelet
  • Movement: Rolex Calibre 1575
  • Power Reserve: 48 Hours
  • Water Resistance: 200m / 660ft

Reference Profile

The 1680 introduced the date window with Cyclops magnifier to the Submariner line while retaining the classic 40mm crown-guard case, acrylic crystal, and black aluminium bezel. Early “Red Sub” dials evolved through multiple variations before transitioning to all-white text later in production, making the reference especially rich in collectible sub-variants and dial configurations.

Movement Overview

The watch is powered by the Rolex calibre 1575, an automatic movement based on the 1570 architecture but adapted to accommodate the date complication. Offering approximately 48 hours of power reserve, the 1575 is regarded as highly robust and reliable, representing Rolex’s mature professional-grade movement engineering of the era.

Functions & Complications

The 1680 displays hours, minutes, and central seconds, with a date aperture at 3 o’clock magnified by a Cyclops lens. It features a black aluminium dive bezel for elapsed time measurement, acrylic crystal, screw-down crown, and water resistance rated to 200 metres, with bezel operation transitioning from bidirectional to unidirectional later in the production run.

Buyer Considerations

This reference is highly sought after due to its historical significance and the desirability of early Red Sub dial variants. Originality is critical, as service dials, replacement hands, or incorrect bezel inserts can significantly impact value, while condition, dial variant, and completeness play a major role in pricing and long-term collectability.

Comparisons & Aternatives

The 1680 is most often compared to the no-date 5513, which offers a purist dial layout, and to the later 16800, which introduced sapphire crystal and higher depth ratings. Within the Submariner lineage, the 1680 represents the turning point at which the model evolved from a pure tool watch into a more versatile professional sports watch with everyday functionality.