Rolex Submariner – 16808 (Blue)

Introductory Summary

The Rolex Submariner reference 16808 is a solid 18ct yellow gold dive watch produced from 1979 until 1988 and represents Rolex’s first modern gold Submariner. It introduced sapphire crystal and a significantly increased depth rating, marking a decisive shift from vintage construction toward the modern luxury sports watch era.

Core Specifications

  • Brand: Rolex
  • Collection: Submariner
  • Reference: 16808
  • Production Start: 1979
  • Production End: 1988
  • Status: Discontinued
  • Case Size: 40mm
  • Case Material: Yellow Gold
  • Bezel: Blue Aluminium, Unidirectional
  • Dial: Black
  • Crystal: Sapphire
  • Bracelet/Strap: Oyster Bracelet
  • Movement: Rolex Calibre 3035
  • Power Reserve: 48 Hours
  • Water Resistance: 300m / 1,000ft

Reference Profile

The 16808 sits at the very beginning of the five-digit Submariner generation and is notable as the first full-gold Submariner to feature sapphire crystal and 300 metres of water resistance. Retaining an aluminium bezel insert and classic 40mm proportions, it blends vintage aesthetics with modern technical upgrades, establishing the template for all subsequent gold Submariners.

Movement Overview

The watch is powered by the Rolex calibre 3035, an automatic movement that introduced the quickset date to the Submariner line. With an approximate 48-hour power reserve, the 3035 is regarded as a robust and practical movement, reflecting Rolex’s increasing focus on everyday usability in its professional watches during this period.

Functions & Complications

The 16808 displays hours, minutes, and central seconds, with a date aperture at 3 o’clock magnified by a Cyclops lens. It features a black aluminium dive bezel for elapsed time measurement, sapphire crystal, a screw-down Triplock crown, and water resistance rated to 300 metres, with bezel operation transitioning from bidirectional to unidirectional during the production run.

Buyer Considerations

This reference appeals to collectors seeking a full gold Submariner with transitional significance rather than later ceramic-era mass. Yellow gold cases and bracelets show wear readily, making condition and polishing history especially important, while originality of dial, bezel insert, and movement configuration plays a major role in value.

Comparisons & Aternatives

The 16808 is most often compared to the later 16818, which introduced an updated movement, and to the two-tone 16803, which shares the same technical upgrades in a less precious-metal-heavy format. Within the Submariner lineage, the 16808 stands as the starting point for the modern gold Submariner lineage that continues today.