Introductory Summary
The Rolex Submariner reference 16800 is a stainless steel dive watch produced from 1979 until 1988 and represents one of the most important transitional models in Submariner history. It was the first steel Submariner to combine sapphire crystal with a 300-metre depth rating, marking Rolex’s decisive move from vintage construction to modern professional specifications.
Core Specifications
- Brand: Rolex
- Collection: Submariner
- Reference: 16800
- Production Start: 1979
- Production End: 1988
- Status: Discontinued
- Case Size: 40mm
- Case Material: Stainless Steel
- Bezel: Black Aluminium, Unidirectional
- Dial: Black
- Crystal: Sapphire
- Bracelet/Strap: Oyster Bracelet
- Movement: Rolex Calibre 3035
- Power Reserve: 48 Hours
- Water Resistance: 300m / 1,000ft
Reference Profile
The 16800 sits between the acrylic-crystal 1680 and the later 16610, retaining an aluminium bezel insert while introducing sapphire crystal and upgraded case construction. With its 40mm case, crown guards, and familiar black-on-black aesthetic, it appears outwardly classic while incorporating substantial technical improvements beneath the surface.
Movement Overview
The watch is powered by the Rolex calibre 3035, an automatic movement that introduced the quickset date function to the Submariner line. Offering approximately 48 hours of power reserve, the 3035 represents a significant mechanical upgrade over earlier movements and laid the groundwork for the long-lived calibre 3135 that followed.
Functions & Complications
The 16800 displays hours, minutes, and central seconds, with a date aperture at 3 o’clock magnified by a Cyclops lens. It features a black aluminium dive bezel for elapsed time measurement, sapphire crystal, screw-down Triplock crown, and water resistance rated to 300 metres, with bezel operation evolving from bidirectional to unidirectional during the production run.
Buyer Considerations
This reference appeals to buyers seeking a balance between vintage aesthetics and modern usability. Early matte-dial examples and original components are particularly valued, while service dials, bezel replacements, and polishing can materially affect collectability, making period correctness an important consideration.
Comparisons & Aternatives
The 16800 is most often compared to the earlier 1680, which retains acrylic crystal and a lower depth rating, and to the 168000 and 16610, which refined the modern Submariner formula further. Within the Submariner lineage, the 16800 stands as the true turning point between vintage and modern steel Submariners.
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