Introductory Summary
The Rolex Submariner reference 168000 is a stainless steel dive watch produced briefly from 1987 to 1989 and is commonly referred to as the “transitional” Submariner. It sits between the long-running 16800 and the later 16610, combining modern specifications with subtle but important material upgrades.
Core Specifications
- Brand: Rolex
- Collection: Submariner
- Reference: 168000
- Nickname: Transitional
- Production Start: 1987
- Production End: 1989
- Status: Discontinued
- Case Size: 40mm
- Case Material: Stainless Steel
- Bezel: Black Aluminium, Unidirectional
- Dial: Black
- Crystal: Sapphire
- Bracelet/Strap: Oyster Bracelet
- Movement: Rolex Calibre 3035
- Power Reserve: 48 Hours
- Water Resistance: 300m / 1,000ft
Reference Profile
The 168000 is distinguished primarily by its use of Rolex’s upgraded stainless steel alloy, introduced as part of a broader materials transition across the brand’s sports models. Visually almost identical to the late 16800, it features a 40mm case, sapphire crystal, black aluminium bezel, and 300-metre depth rating, making it an understated but technically significant reference within the Submariner lineage.
Movement Overview
The watch is powered by the Rolex calibre 3035, an automatic movement featuring a quickset date and approximately 48 hours of power reserve. As the final Submariner to use the 3035, the 168000 represents the end of an important mechanical era before the introduction of the calibre 3135 in the subsequent 16610.
Functions & Complications
The 168000 displays hours, minutes, and central seconds, with a date aperture at 3 o’clock magnified by a Cyclops lens. It features a unidirectional aluminium dive bezel for elapsed time measurement, sapphire crystal, screw-down Triplock crown, and water resistance rated to 300 metres, fully aligning it with modern professional dive-watch standards.
Buyer Considerations
This reference appeals to collectors who value subtle transitional models and short production runs rather than overt design differences. Condition, originality, and completeness are key value drivers, while the reference’s relative visual similarity to the 16800 means its appeal is often strongest among knowledgeable enthusiasts rather than casual buyers.
Comparisons & Aternatives
The 168000 is most often compared to the 16800, which preceded it and shares most visual traits, and to the 16610, which followed with a new movement and longer production run. Within the Submariner timeline, the 168000 occupies a niche but important role as the final bridge between early sapphire-era Submariners and the classic five-digit steel Submariner that defined the 1990s and 2000s.
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